The Taiyaki Trend

While contemplating macarons and whoopie pies within the context of the cupcake trend, I couldn’t help but notice the disdinct lack of interest in cupcakes in Japan.  This observation prompted me to search for Japan’s trendy desert of the moment, which turns out to be Taiyaki.

Taiyaki is a fish-shaped treat consisting of a fried fish-shaped waffle-like cake sealing in a sweet or savory filling (which will range from azuki, the traditional sweet Japanese bean paste, to chocolate or vanilla custard, cheese, or even sausage or gyoza filling).

Evidence of the taiyaki trend can be found in press coverage and online buzz.  Both Reuters and the Mainichi Daily News recently posted articles on taiyaki, and plenty of bloggers have been buzzing about various taiyaki shops and variations.  Even Cooking with Dog featured the fish-shaped treat this June:

Evidence is also in the numbers.  As you can see below, Taiyaki interest in Japan has spiked significantly in 2009.

Taiyaki interest has also grown recently in the United States, primarily in California and New York.

What makes taiyaki a suitable trendy treat for 2009?  The Mainichi Daily News points out that new variations in batter and fillings have rejuvinated the snack, and cites a new taiyaki franchise that opened a small shop in Shibuya this fall that offers some interesting variations (such as Italian, German Potato, and Cheeseburger).  The article also points out that “many of those who enter the taiyaki selling business come from unrelated backgrounds,” which is a common trait amongst trendy food entrepreneurs.  Furthermore, taiyaki have been known to do well during recessions, as they’re an inexpensive but delicious indulgence.  Reuters expands on the economic aspect of taiyaki, by noting that the cakes are relatively inexpensive when compared to other desserts and carry cheerful connotations.

In sum, taiyaki are trendy because they’re cute, versatile, and inexpensive indulgences.

Will taiyaki become popular worldwide?  Eh… I’m not sure.  There are a couple shops that sell them in New York and San Francisco (the only place I’ve personally seen them sold is at May’s Coffee Shop in San Francisco’s Japantown), but flavors are limited, and the desserts are typically viewed as a Japanese novelty.  American consumers can buy the tools needed to make these at home, but unitaskers are kind of out these days.

Perhaps though, with the rising popularity of Japanese culture, more people will get into the snack and we’ll see some of those interesting flavors and configurations (I’d really like to try that Italian taiyaki!).  Until then, at least, I can rest assured I know what’s taking the place of cupcakes in my beloved birth country.